UPGRADE: MANLEY SLAM! Adding the Digital I/O

PURPOSE: To add the digital I/O Digital to Analog and Analog to Digital Converters to analog SLAM!

Serial numbers for units that will benefit from this update are:

Any SLAM! with serial suffix "A". If you have a serial suffix "D" then you already have the Digital I/O.

 

UPGRADE KIT INCLUDES:

a)        Green digital converter PCB containing the ADC and DAC modules aka "Converter PCB"

b)       2 x 34-way IDC ribbon cables for above

c)        4 x 4-40 screws to secure converter PCB

d)        Rear panel module aka "Digital I/O"

e)        Instructions and drawings for procedure

f)        New serial number stickers with "D" suffix

 

TOOLS REQUIRED:

a)        Phillips #1 screwdriver 

b)        Needle-nose pliers, or very strong and agile fingers.   

c)        A pair of little side cutters (preferred), or even nail clippers, or small scissors.

 

PROCEDURE for INSTALLING DIGITAL I/O:

CAUTION!!   The Digital card is sensitive to static electricity. Make sure to handle the card properly by grounding yourself touching the chassis of the unit or other grounded equipment before handling any static sensitive devices.

References to "Right" and "Left" reference viewing the unit from in front of the faceplate, top view.

1.  Turn off the SLAM!’s Outboard Power Supply. Leave unit to cool off and discharge for 5 minutes.

2. Leave the power connector hooked up from the audio chassis to the PSU. Also, leave the AC mains power cord plugged into to the wall. This will keep the unit grounded to the wall so that static electricity will go to earth instead of going to harm to static sensitive devices.

3. Again, make sure power is turned OFF at the Outboard Power Supply!

4. Remove the 2 x Phillips screws securing the top grill cover. Remove the top cover by sliding it out towards the back. Put cover and screws aside.

5. Remove the 4 x Phillips screws holding the blank insert mounted on the back panel. Here is where you are going to fit the Digital I/O panel with the switches and jacks.

6. Install the I/O panel and module where the blank insert was. Be patient and maneuver in the panel carefully. It seems hard to fit but it will fit, we promise.

7. Secure the I/O panel with the 4 x black 4-40 Phillips screws that used to secure the blank cover insert and plug the ribbon cable to the connector on the main PCB. This action is a bit tricky too. A pair of long needle-nose pliers will be handy. Make sure the ribbon cable goes down all the way into its socket.

8. Locate the two brown-orange 3 pin male connectors on the left-hand digital I/O panel board. They are near the pair of blue multiturn potentiometers. These two connectors carry the balanced DAC output lines to the 1/4" balanced DAC output jacks. Locate the Mogami cable that is soldered to each of the Left (purple Mogami wire) and Right (grey Mogami wire) direct DAC outputs, at the stereo 1/4" phone jacks. These cables are probably tied off to some other wires around the back left and right area. Clip off any cable ties that are holding them bound and free up these two cables so that you can route them over to the Digital I/O module. They have mating orange-brown female connectors on them ready to be plugged into the digital I/O board. The Left channel direct DAC purple cable must go to the bottom connector on the digital panel. The right channel grey cable must go to the top connector. Plug those in. That’s it. You are finished with the digital I/O panel and module.

9. Locate the 34 pin connector on the main board to the left of the limiter sidechain surface mount board near the center of the main PCB, located between three heaksinks. Look for the jumper on pins 13 and 14 of this 34 pin connector (7 rowns back from the front). It’s the only jumper that is on that connector. You can’t miss it. You wont be needing this jumper anymore. (It relates to the LED Meters and ADC overload. Remove the jumper with needlenose pliers being careful not to bend any pins. But save him just in case. Maybe just put it in a little plastic bag and tape him somewhere inside the unit just in case you need to go back to analog only someday.

10. Locate the black wire (circuit ground cable) that has a crinkle-washer lug soldered on one end covered by shrink tubing. The cable is cable-tied to some other wires around the area under the vu meters. (Some early units might not have this cable but the unit will work just fine if this wire is not there.) The other end of this black cable is soldered to a big ground trace on the main PCB. Cut off those cable-ties to free up the black ground wire so you can route it back to the Converter PCB.

11. The crinkle-washer on this black ground wire has black shrink tubing on it to prevent it from shorting out to something when it is not being used (in analog-only units). But now we will need this cable to provide an additional ground to the digital converter board. Remove the shrink tubing to expose the crinkle-washer lug. Cut off the shrink tubing carefully with a knife or side-cutters to expose the metal crinkle-washer lug.

12. Route the black ground wire so that you can get the crinkle-washer lug to the front left-hand spacer between the converter PCB card and the metal mounting post. We want this crinkle-washer lug to be sandwiched between the converter PCB and the mounting post. It might be easier to go ahead and screw the converter card onto the 4 x raised spacer-posts using the 4 x 4-40 screws and then remove the front left hand corner's screw, slide the crinkle-washer lug in between the board and the mounting post and then put the screw back and screw him down well tight.

13. Plug in the two 34-pin ribbon cables on the converter board. The rear cable goes from the converter board to the right Digital I/O board. The front cable goes straight down to the main PCB. The connectors are keyed. Plug them in and make sure all the connectors are well seated in their sockets. Fold the excess ribbon cable down so you will be able to slide the top back on.

14. Put the top back onto the unit by sliding it into the side rails from the back and popping it into the front panel slot. Secure it with the two silver Phillips #1 countersunk screws. That’s it! No further adjustments or calibrations are necessary. Your Digital I/O should magically work now.

For further info please contact our service department.

MANLEY REPAIR DEPOT 
ATT: PAUL FARGO 
799W Calle Medico
Oracle, AZ 85623 USA
TEL: +1 (909) 627-4256 x325
FAX: +1 (909) 628-2482
Factory address:
Manley Laboratories, Inc. 
13880 Magnolia Ave.
Chino, CA 91710 USA
TEL: +1 (909) 627-4256
FAX: +1 (909) 628-2482

 

Location of this page online: 

http://www.manleylabs.com/techpage/SLAMinstalldigital.html