Manley_Stereo_Tube

May 2007 Jim Messina visits the factory to pick out capsules for his new Manley Stereo Mic!

The mic suspension is held onto the mic by a set of red silicone o-rings connecting FIVE pillars surrounding the mic, one set on the top and the other on the bottom of the mic. There are two sets of stainless steel screws and spacer nuts that hold the silicone o-rings onto these points and all you do is loop the o-rings onto these posts inner and outer. We double up the o-rings for extra security. So put two of 'em on each point. As shown in the pictures.

If you needs to order more o-rings, please fill out our PARTS ORDER FORM and request 20pcs Part Number ORING02 which is RED SILICONE O-RING #114 and we'll sell those to you for $10.00 retail plus shipping.

Disconnect the power cable at the mic. Do not remove the mic suspension. You never need to.

Back out the little allen grub screw at the top of the mic to unlock the ROTATE capsule knob and unscrew the knob.

Remove the three phillips screws at the base (black part) of the mic that hold the case on.

Carefully pull at the base of the mic (sometimes a slight twist will help), and slide the base out of the body
just enough to expose the tubes.

Grasp the tube while holding the tube socket, and wiggle and pull to remove it. Install a new tube and put the case back on.

First thing I would check is that all the case/chassis screws are in nice and tight
and making good ground to exposed metal.
Remove the 3 x silver phillips screws that hold the cover/case onto the
mic. For the STEREO MIC, you need to back out the little allen grub screw
at the top of the mic to unlock the ROTATE capsule knob before you can
slide the body of the mic up a little bit to check the holes on the base.
Slide up the body and wiggle. (The base and guts of the mic are all contained by a sub-chassis.)
Make sure there is silver metal on the case housing in the
countersink and also under them on the base piece. Use a 1/4" drill bit in
your hand and turn and press the drill bit a few times to make sure you have
exposed silver metal showing in those places. Put the screws back and test.

Next: There are some little set screws
around the circumference of the base piece hiding in their holes. Using
1/16th allen key, back them out and run them back in. These are the guys who
hold the XLR connector in place. We use stainless steel ones these days.
Try those and re-test.

If the buzz is still there, with the mic on, see if touching the screen or
top of the screen makes any buzz go away. Hold the XLR cable shell so you are
making the ground path. If the screen is loose, it will need to be expoxied
back in place with silver conductive epoxy. If touching the case makes the
buzz go away then we still have grounds not being made so repeat steps 1 & 2.

Next would be to replace the tube with any good working 12AX7 or 6072 you
have kicking around to see if it is the problem.

Next would be more advanced, checking the power supply volts, especially the
heater regulator to make sure you have 12V coming off him...
looking for a bad cap in the PSU that isn't doing his job of removing ripple, etc.
If nothing you try works then we'll arrange an RA# for you to send it in.
You can fill in the service form here to get that going or to request a schematic.