Manley_Gold_Reference_Multi_Pattern_Tube

Manley Gold Reference Multi Pattern Microphone
Features And Specifications | Manufacturer's Suggested Retail Price
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The MANLEY GOLD REFERENCE MULTI-PATTERN MICROPHONES are a statement, quite simply, of the finest microphones that money can buy in the pursuit of truly accurate musical recordings. The Gold Reference Series employ our own design of large capsules (1.25 inch overall, 1 inch diaphragm diameter) which are executed to precise tolerances made possible by modern micro-milling machinery available today in California. The capsule rings and back-plates are milled from solid brass. The gold diaphragm film comes from Germany and is tensioned using proprietary techniques by David Josephson ensuring capsule-to-capsule constancy, combined with the speed, "air", and superb ultra-high frequency response you have only dreamt about.

The all-tube electronics in the MANLEY REFERENCE SERIES MICROPHONES are built around two triodes in cascade forming an entire gain-block. We have recently switched to a dual-triode 12AX7WA, easily obtainable and replaceable, mounted in a ceramic socket. (We used to use 6072A until it became impossible to find quiet ones out of the NOS dreck left on the market.) The output is coupled through a MANLEY output transformer of unparalleled quality and substantial physical size employing nickel laminations with "hum bucking" bi-filar windings, encased in mu-metal. The polar pattern control is continuously variable between the OMNI, CARDIOID, and FIGURE 8 positions vastly increasing this mic’s versatility. The Gold Mics make it possible to exactly tailor the proximity effect to achieve the desired character.

We have chosen a very open weave stainless-steel grille for the capsule window which allows all the highs to reach the capsule unimpaired letting the engineer choose if, when, and how much pop screen is appropriate. As a result, the Reference Gold reaches to the furthest extremes of highs and lows with gorgeous natural acoustic smoothness. Some engineers tell us it sometimes "hears" more than they do! The base of the microphone holds a locking 3 pin gold XLR connector for the audio signal output to allow you to use whatever audio cable you prefer– as exotic as you wish. A detachable threaded 4-pin connector for the 30 foot power supply cable carries the stringently filtered B+ and regulated heater voltages from the separate dedicated power supply. The microphone body is machined from brass providing excellent shielding properties, polished to a high lustre, then plated with 24 karat gold for an impressive finish, inspiring confidence in artists and producers.

Our precision suspension system is provided with each REFERENCE MICROPHONE (the capsule itself is mounted onto a neoprene-rubber shock-mount.) Because the entire working "guts" of the microphone may be removed for service in one piece from the housing, it is envisioned that the microphone need not be removed

from the suspension. We also provide a very useful swivel of our own design with every REFERENCE MICROPHONE; its T-bar handle and locking clutch action require no tools to adjust. And no MANLEY microphone would be complete without a genuine leather capsule protector with soft velour lining which slips (and ties) onto the end of the microphone to protect the capsule when not in use.

Each REFERENCE MICROPHONE is packaged complete in a strong locking carrying-case.

Check out the STEREO Gold Mic! Check out the Manley Reference Cardioid Mic!

HOW TO CONVERT
If you need to make a conversion, print out those pages and then request the schematic from
Paul in our Tech Support department here. Or if you want to stick with the 6072 tube, you can try to find some on the open market. We have none in stock anymore.

Michael McDonald comes to the Manley factory in August 2002 to pick out microphones with his dealer, Chris Pelonis.

The mic suspension is held onto the mic by a set of red silicone o-rings connecting FIVE pillars surrounding the mic, one set on the top and the other on the bottom of the mic. There are two sets of stainless steel screws and spacer nuts that hold the silicone o-rings onto these points and all you do is loop the o-rings onto these posts inner and outer. We double up the o-rings for extra security. So put two of 'em on each point. As shown in the pictures.

If you needs to order more o-rings, please fill out our PARTS ORDER FORM and request 20pcs Part Number ORING02 which is RED SILICONE O-RING #114 and we'll sell those to you for $10.00 retail plus shipping.

Disconnect the power cable at the mic. Do not remove the mic suspension. You never need to.

Remove the three phillips screws at the base (black part) of the mic that hold the case on.

Carefully pull at the base of the mic (sometimes a slight twist will help), and slide the base out of the body
just enough to expose the tube

Grasp the tube while holding the tube socket, and wiggle and pull to remove it. Install a new tube and put the case back on.

First thing I would check is that all the case/chassis screws are in nice and tight
and making good ground to exposed metal.
Remove the 3 x silver phillips screws that hold the cover/case onto the
mic. You can slide the body of the mic up a little bit to check the holes on the base.
Slide up and wiggle. (The base and guts of the mic are all contained by a sub-chassis.)
Make sure there is silver metal on the case housing in the
countersink and also under them on the base piece. Use a 1/4" drill bit in
your hand and turn and press the drill bit a few times to make sure you have
exposed silver metal showing in those places. Put the screws back and test.

Next: There are some little set screws
around the circumference of the base piece hiding in their holes. Using
1/16th allen key, back them out and run them back in. These are the guys who
hold the XLR connector in place. We use stainless steel ones these days.
Try those and re-test.

If the buzz is still there, with the mic on, see if touching the screen or
top of the screen makes any buzz go away. Hold the XLR cable shell so you are
making the ground path. If the screen is loose, it will need to be expoxied
back in place with silver conductive epoxy. If touching the case makes the
buzz go away then we still have grounds not being made so repeat steps 1 & 2.

Next would be to replace the tube with any good working 12AX7 or 6072 you
have kicking around to see if it is the problem.

Next would be more advanced, checking the power supply volts, especially the
heater regulator to make sure you have 12V coming off him...
looking for a bad cap in the PSU that isn't doing his job of removing ripple, etc.
If nothing you try works then we'll arrange an RA# for you to send it in.
You can fill in the service form here to get that going or to request a schematic.